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Mile Rocks Lighthouse

Mile Rocks sketch

 

The orange and white caisson beyond Land's End in San Francisco is Mile Rocks Lighthouse. A victim of modernization, this seemingly humble structure was one of the great lighthouse engineering feats of all time.

Mile Rocks is a a pair of stones about half a mile north of Point Lobos in San Francisco. The larger of the two rocks is 40 feet by 30 feet, and rises about 20 feet above sea level. Mariners considered these to be a serious hazard due to fog and strong currents in the area. In November 1889, the Lighthouse Board marked the rocks with a bell buoy. The buoy proved inadequate, as strong currents would sometimes submerge the buoy. There was a fog bell at Fort Point, but this was often inaudible at Mile Rocks. The buoy was removed in 1890.

In 1901, the Rio De Janeiro was wrecked near Fort Point. 146 lives were lost in the disaster. Outrage over the tragedy led to the establishment of a more powerful fog signal at Fort Point, as well as approval for a new lighthouse at Mile Rocks.

The contractor, James A. McMahon, set out with a crew of skilled workmen in 1904. When the crew saw that they would have to work on the small, wave-washed rock, they refused to work. McMahon collected a group of deep-water sailors - less skilled as construction workers, but familiar with hazards of the sea. His new work crew proved up to the task.

Work was difficult. The sea-swept rock often sent sailors into the water. Work could only be done a few hours a day - at low tide. The schooner Rio Rey was anchored nearby to provide support, but was swept from her moorings by the currents, forcing her to anchor further from the work site. Rings of steel plating were set in place, and concrete poured within. The walls of the caisson were four feet thick.

Work progressed more quickly once the caisson was completed. A steel tower of three tiers and a lantern room was built. The tower was white, and the caisson and lantern room painted black. A compressed air whistle served as a fog signal, and a third-order lens installed in the lantern room. The lighthouse had a crew of four.

Life on the lighthouse was isolated, despite the proximity to San Francisco. Families could not live on the station. Travel to and from the station was difficult. Keepers had to climb a Jacob's ladder hanging from a boom on the lighthouse to get to the tower. The noise from the fog signal was inescapable. The station was subject to powerful waves and high winds - a keeper could be literally blown from one of the tower's catwalks. Despite these hazards, some keepers enjoyed the assignment. Keeper Lyman Woodruff served on Mile Rocks for 18 years.

Glen London, who served on Mile Rocks from 1953-1954, described the precarious transport of supplies and personnel to the lighthouse:

 

Select an image to enlarge

Mile Rocks Light

Mile Rocks as it originally appeared

Mile Rocks (pre-modernization)

Mile Rocks - note the waves below

Mile Rocks

Personnel change at Mile Rocks

Personnel change at Mile Rocks

Mile Rocks - Point Bonita is off to the far right

Mile Rocks & Point Bonita (right)

"The self bailing, self righting surf boat was dispatched from the Fort Point Life Boat Station located on the San Francisco Presidio. A seaman would get in the well in the bow of the boat. Pre-boxed food and personal supplies would be handed to him so he could fasten them to a line lowered from the cat walk (which is 20 feet above high tide). This was the process used to get small supplies aboard onto the lighthouse."

"For the personnel change, a rope ladder with a line fastened to the bottom end would be lowered by the personnel on the catwalk. The seaman in the bow of the boat would grab the lower end of the ladder. The personnel going aboard the lighthouse would stand on the forward deck of the boat and would grab the ladder on the crest of the swell of waves and climb the ladder quickly as the boat dropped out from underneath him. (It was not unusual for the seaman in the bow of the boat to hang on to the bottom of the ladder as the boat backed away and let go to let the man on the ladder SWING.) On the east side of the lighthouse, the boom off the second story landing had a steam winch that was used to raise heavy articles (drums of oil, propane bottles, etc. ) Of course they raised their own vegetables (BY ROPE!!)."

In the 1960's, despite protests from the general public, the tower of Mile Rocks was dismantled in the name of progress. The Coast Guard had deemed the station difficult to access and best suited to automation. The tower was removed and a helicopter pad built atop the caisson. Conversion was completed in August 1966. Airhorns served as the fog signal, and an aerobeacon replaced the Fresnel lens. Solar panels were installed to power the station.


References (see links)

Guardians of the Golden Gate, Shanks pp. 129-149
Umbrella Guide to California Lighthouses, Nelson pp. 112-114
The Keeper's Log Fall 2003

 

 

Directions: The lighthouse is not accessible. The station can be viewed from Land's End at the northwest corner of San Francisco. The Coastal Trail along this area can be accessed via the parking lot at the end of El Camino Del Mar. (From Ocean Beach, follow Point Lobos Avenue north past the Cliff House and the Sutro Bath ruins. Turn left on El Camino Del Mar.) The lighthouse can also be seen from a golf course adjacent to the California Palace of the Legion of Honor. The light can be seen at a distance from Point Bonita. The third order lens is now at Point Loma in San Diego. (November 2006)

This page is dedicated to the memory of Keeper Glen London, who passed away on December 11, 1999. Glen London, his wife Joan, and daughter Susan Krenzien provided the vintage Mile Rocks photos.

 

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