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Cape Disappointment Lighthouse

Cape Disappointment sketch

 

Cape Disappointment marks the north side of the mouth of the Columbia. The point was named Cape San Rogue by the Spanish explorer Don Bruno de Heceta in 1775. When British fur trader John Meares sailed up the Oregon coast in 1788 in search of the river Heceta claimed to have found, he could not find it and thus named the area Cape Disappointment. It was not until 1792 that American fur trader John Gray crossed the river bar and confirmed Heceta's discovery. He named the river after his ship, the Columbia Rediviva.

The cape was used by navigators well before a lighthouse was built. In 1812 men at Fort Astor (Astoria) marked the cape by raising a white flag or setting fire to trees. In Lt. William P. McArthur's "Pacific Coast Pilot" of 1850, ships took bearings based upon three spruce trees that had been topped on the cape.

McArthur suggested a lighthouse at Cape Disappointment in 1848 in what was then Oregon Territory. $53,000 was appropriated for a lighthouse in 1852. The bark Oriole, which had delivered materials for construction of four California lighthouses, arrived at the Columbia River in September 1853, but ran aground. The crew was rescued, but the ship and its cargo were lost. Work began despite the mishap, but a second ship did not arrive for almost two years. After the lighthouse was designed, a first-order Fresnel lens was ordered. When the tower was completed, it was found to be too small to house the lens. Rebuilding the tower took an additional two years. The first lighthouse in the Pacific Northwest was finally lit in 1856.

In addition to the light, the station was equipped with a 1600-pound bell powered by a striking mechanism. The keeper's residence was about a quarter mile from the tower.

The station shared the cape with Fort Canby, which was established by the Union during the Civil War. In 1871, vibrations from gunnery practice damaged the fog bell house to such an extent that a new one had to be built.

Keeper John Boyd, who is believed to be the first keeper at Cape Disappointment, was in frequent communication with the superintendent of west coast lights. These communications, published in the Keeper's Log, indicates the difficulties of early life at the station. The station was very damp - Boyd requested (and received) a stove for the bell house to keep the tower warm. In 1857-1858, Boyd writes of continual difficulty with flooding in the cellar - the water "has become as high as three feet." In 1858-1859, Boyd writes that the keepers have not been paid, which has caused problems with the assistant keepers. "I should say here that in consequence of not receiving any pay for their services they have become very careless and negligent in their duties." In 1859, Boyd's request to buy a horse for hauling oil by using money from the sale of empty oil barrels was denied, despite having "paid nearly double the amount of interest on the money I was obliged to borrow while my salary was withheld from me." In 1865, Boyd wrote that the vibrations of nearby Army guns was shattering the lighthouse windows. Boyd was advised to simply open the windows and "all precautions taken if possible to prevent injury to the lens, lamp, and other pieces of apparatus connected to the lighthouse." Keeper Boyd died on duty in 1865.

Probably the most famous of Cape Disappointment's keepers was Joel Munson. Munson arrived at the station in 1865. During that year, the bark Industry ran aground with loss of seventeen crewmen. There was no life-saving boat at the lighthouse, so the keepers could do nothing to assist. Munson salvaged a metallic boat shortly afterwards and raised money for repairing the boat by holding dances in Astoria. Munson's work paid off in 1866 when the W.B. Scranton was wrecked on the bar. Munson's boat was used to assist in rescuing the crew. The government recognized the value of Munson's efforts and established a Life-Saving station at Cape Disappointment later that year.

Select an image to enlarge

Cape Disappointment Light

High Above the Pacific

From the Visitor Center

Path to Tower

The Tower

Late Afternoon

Fresnel Lens at Visitor Center

Fresnel Lens at Visitor Center

Coast Guard Station

Coast Guard Station

 

The lighthouse had several shortcomings. The fog bell was sometimes inaudible due to the roar of ocean waves. It was discontinued in 1881 and moved to West Point, and eventually to Warrior Rock. Also, the light was not visible to ships approaching from the north. This problem was remedied by building a lighthouse at North Head, two miles from Cape Disappointment. The first-order lens was moved to North Head and a fourth-order lens installed at Cape Disappointment.

The lighthouse was electrified in 1937. In 1956, the Coast Guard intended to close the station, but retained the light when the Columbia River bar pilots protested. The light was automated in 1973, and is monitored from Astoria. The lighthouse is still an active aid to navigation. An observation deck has been built for the Coast Guard to monitor traffic and bar conditions. The grounds are open to the public via Cape Disappointment State Park (formerly Fort Canby State Park).


References (see links)

Oregon's Seacoast Lighthouses, Gibbs pp. 210-211, 23-224, 226-228
Umbrella Guide to Oregon Lighthouses, Nelson pp. 103-107, 109
The Keeper's Log Spring 2005

 

 

Directions: The lighthouse is on the grounds of Cape Disappointment State Park (formerly Fort Canby State Park). From Astoria, Oregon, cross the Columbia River at the Astoria-Megler Bridge and go west on US 101 to Ilwaco. From Ilwaco, follow signs to the park. From the park, you can visit both Cape Disappointment and North Head. The park is well-marked with signs. The first-order Fresnel lens is on display at the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center in the park. From the interpretive center, there is a ~1.5 mile trail to hike to the lighthouse. The tower itself is active and not open for tours.

The park hours are 6:30AM-10PM (summer) and 6:30AM-4PM (winter). For current information, call the park office at (360) 642-3078 or go to the Washington State Parks website (see links). (September 2006)

 

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